Beneath the great glass roof of Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the wine merchants share their art of matching the region's vintages with the treasures of the stalls. Follow the guide.
At Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, wine is never left to chance. In this temple of gastronomy under the patronage of Paul Bocuse, the in-house wine merchants make sure every bottle finds its dish, and every dish its pairing. At Nicolas, as at the Fac & Spera cellar created by Michel Chapoutier, they do not simply sell vintages: they pass on expertise, the art of marrying the Rhône Valley, Burgundy and the Beaujolais with the neighbouring marvels of the covered market.
The first piece of advice can be summed up in one word: proximity. In a region blessed by the gods of wine, the finest alliances are often forged just a few kilometres away. A fresh, fruity Beaujolais-Villages is a wonderful escort for the saucisson brioché or the rosette de Lyon from Les Halles' charcutiers. Its liveliness cuts through the richness of the pork without ever overpowering it, in the purest tradition of the Lyonnais mâchon.
For more delicate dishes, the whites take over. A pike quenelle coated in Nantua sauce calls for a Mâcon or a white Beaujolais, whose creamy Chardonnay embraces the finesse of the crayfish. A fresh white Côtes-du-Rhône accompanies the platters of oysters and shellfish from the écaillers, while the creamed Bresse poultry favours a tender, silky wine.
Then comes the grand finale: the cheese. Before the matured platters of the house, the wine merchants know just how bold to be. A soft Saint-Marcellin reveals the floral sweetness of a Fleurie; a fuller Saint-Félicien pairs with a structured Juliénas. At Les Halles, the perfect pairing is never set in stone: it is a conversation, to be held glass in hand, among enthusiasts.