Every third Thursday of November, the belly of Lyon comes alive to the rhythm of the young wine: at Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, Beaujolais Nouveau is savoured among enthusiasts.
There are November mornings when Lyon holds its breath. On the third Thursday of the month, at the stroke of midnight, the Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived: the ritual phrase echoes from the city's bouchons all the way to the aisles of Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. Beneath the great glass roof, this young wine, born of the Gamay grape just north of Lyon, is reunited with its most faithful following. For it was indeed in the Lyonnais bistros that this tradition took root, before spreading to every corner of the world.
Born of the winegrowers' wish to sell the year's harvest as early as autumn, Beaujolais Nouveau earned its noble reputation over the course of the twentieth century. The date of the third Thursday of November, set in 1985, turned it into a genuine national event, awaited as far away as Asia, where millions of bottles are shipped each year. At Les Halles, this young, easy-drinking and fruity wine rediscovers its first calling: that of sharing.
Behind the counters, the wine merchants of Les Halles turn the arrival of the young wine into a gourmet celebration. Corks are pulled, glasses are poured, the purple robe and the nose of red fruits are discussed, and cuvées are compared from one estate to the next. Glass in hand, Lyonnais and passing visitors alike put the world to rights in that warm atmosphere that is the very soul of the covered market.
Yet Beaujolais Nouveau is never drunk on its own. Along the stalls, it calls for the charcuterie of a Sibilia, a warm saucisson, a plate of pork delicacies or a board of aged cheeses. The mâchon lyonnais, that hearty snack inherited from the silk weavers, finds here its perfect match. The whole Lyonnais art of living is concentrated in a few mouthfuls and a few sips.
A true temple of tasting, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse embody to perfection the conviviality that Beaujolais Nouveau celebrates. More than a wine, it is a suspended moment, a promise of sharing and good cheer. Every autumn, under the patronage of the sacred giant of gastronomy, the belly of Lyon proves that the celebration is lived first and foremost at the table, among friends.